In search of something new again, he returned to Tokyo and was reunited with his former superior Keiji Nakazawa, and started working for the master at Sushisho in Yotsuya.Ī sushi apprentice refers to the master as oyakata, which includes the characters for ‘parent’ and ‘the way’. Not afraid of change, he travelled to New York serving up sushi to NOHO gourmands for more than six years. But he stuck at it, and little by little developed a great respect for the talents of his master and a desire to constantly push to the next level. He couldn’t see the fun in it and contemplated quitting every time he mastered breaking down another fish. Free to choose whatever path he liked, he set off for Tokyo at the age of eighteen with no clear goals and no formal training in any field, and soon found himself working under a sushi master.Īt first he didn’t like his job. As the third son, Saito was unburdened by career expectations from his family. Fuji, and ironically one of Japan’s few landlocked prefectures. The journey for sushi master Toshio Saito all began in Yamanashi, best known as the home of Mt. One signature dish comes straight from the chef’s hands: kegani no temaki – a piece of freshly roasted seaweed lovingly filled with a mixture of crab meat and vinegared rice. The slightly grilled skin of red sea bream (kinme no aburi) is brushed in one soft stroke with a delicately sweet soy sauce, like an artist putting the finishing touches on a painting. A white fish is carefully laid on top of a traditional vinegar shari so as not to be overpowered visually or in flavour. A darker, richer piece of fish or shellfish is paired with rice flavoured with red vinegar, which has been fermented with sake lees. The delicate but umami-rich flavors of the rice are another reason you will not want to dip the sushi into soy sauce. Saito has devised recipes for two varieties of vinegared rice to highlight the innate flavors of the seafood morsels that top it. One factor which will make this sushi different to most you have had before is the shari. Based on the ancient art of sword-making, these characteristics can only be achieved by heating the metal at low temperatures, requiring a great deal of patience and precision on the part of the artisan. The knives are hand-forged by skilled artisans and loved by chefs for their flexibility and durability. The morsels of fish are sliced just before serving with Nenohi knives, which Saito says he switches depending on his mood. Some varieties are served fresh from the market, and others such as maguro are aged for greater depth of flavour. Ingredients are procured from Tsukiji fish market and various suppliers every morning guaranteeing the freshest flavors for your meal. He gently takes up a small handful of vinegared rice, carefully molding it with his delicate hands before topping it with a dot of wasabi and the best fish and shellfish sourced from trusted suppliers he has built relationships with during his 30 years as a sushi chef. So perfect as it is that there is no dipping into soy sauce. A small knob of daikon, a few tiny rounds of green onions, a golden powder of vinegared egg yolk – Saito selects the components to build the flavors and textures that come together in one cohesive delicious bite. The simple presentation masks meticulously prepared layers of ingredients. The journey will be even more enjoyable if you take the chef’s recommendations on the perfect nihonshu to match any dish, be it fresh and supple or charred and smoky.įor Saito, variation is the key. Nigiri sushi are interspersed between a variety of tsumami side dishes, taking you on an adventure through colors, flavors and textures. A somewhat shy and unassuming man, sushi master Toshio Saito engages carefully and measuredly as he creates each dish. The style here is omakase – you leave everything in the hands of the chef and a course filled with delicious dishes begins.
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